These photographs may prove useful for those just learning about human powered recumbent tadpole tricycles. Some of the more common parts of trikes are shown with basic descriptors.
The trike models below herald from the stable of Inspired Cycle Engineering in England, otherwise commonly known as ICE. They are the ICE T, ICE Q, and ICE T 26. The T is indicative of its ability to traverse trails other than pavement due to the extra high ground clearance. The Q reflects a quick and low machine with excellent road handling characteristics. The T 26 is a higher trike with a 26 inch rear wheel for faster top end speed on paved roads. Both the T and Q have suspended rear swinging arms for a smoother ride, while the T 26 has a rigid rear frame.
All three trikes were so named up through the 2009 model year, but with the dawning of 2010, quite a number of modifications were made, along with new name badges. The T continues its tradition in the ICE Adventure, while the Q lives on in the ICE Sprint.
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NOTE: To a trike newcomer, a word of explanation may be in order about the crankset. In these photographs, it appears that chainrings and crankset share the same description, which is not quite accurate. The crankset is composed of several components, including the chainrings. The three chainrings, common on most trikes, are also referred to as sprockets by some folks. The crankset is also referred to simply as the crank, or in England as the chainset.
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I have a Terratrike Tour with the same 11-34 cassette you have. I noticed in your pictures that your rear derailleur is also extremely low to the ground–actually less that the height of the tire in my case. Has this been a problem for you in any wet ground trail or off road experiences you’ve had? I’ve ridden my trike over 10,000 miles without a problem, but its all been on paved roads. Thanx.
Hello Joe,
If I ride in tall wet grass, the blades of the grass will contact my derailleur, or if I ride on a soft sandy or dirt road for a ways to pitch a primitive stealth camp, the derailleur can pick up some dirt, but I have found these to be non-issues. I have never struck my derailleur on the ground or any rock or other hard object. I have never damaged it in any way. The trick is, as you likely well know based on the mileage you’ve ridden, is to be aware of how to straddle road obstacles such as rocks or shoulder debris. By being aware of the location of your wheels, derailleur, and chain, it is easy to just pass over the tops of protruding objects by allowing them to pass beneath your feet. I would not consider a trike with a 26 inch or 700C wheel just to get the derailleur up higher in the air, in fact, I recommend 20 inch wheels all around. Keep in mind though that I run 20×1.75 inch tires (Schwalbe Marathon Plus), which makes a difference in derailleur height. My trike originally came with 20×1.25 Kenda Kwest tires, and it sat lower to the ground yet. For those riders who run Schwalbe Big Apples (20×2.0 inch), there is even more room to spare. Regarding straddling road debris, I have become so ingrained with the tricycle these past three years that on the rare occasion I drive an automobile for family, I find myself now thinking about that third rear wheel in the center, but then remember that I am in a car with the two trailing wheels in line with the front. It’s a weird feeling, but I like it because it shows that my brain has made great strides in ditching the car paradigm of existence … trikes rule! See ya’ …
Steve
Hi,
I’m a Trice [suspension] T owner. I have radical sidepods but need to be able to carry things a little more bulky. Any idea what the options are for pannier racks for me?
I have a suspended ICE Q, and also have the radical sidepods. Over the rear wheel, I have the ICE rack, upon which I mount two Arkel GT-54 side panniers (54 liters total capacity) and one Arkel Tailrider (11 liters total capacity). This setup provides me 90 liters of touring cargo capacity. If you don’t need that much room, you can also get larger Radcal sidepods. Try posting this question on the new Trike Asylum forum (http://trikeasylum.freeforums.org/) and see what some other trike pilots have to add! – Steve
Thanks, Steve. Utah Trikes said Sun’s tadpole trikes are not of the same quality as much of their competition or their Deltas. Bicycleman will not sell at least one model of Sun’s tadpoles because of stability issues at speed. The mesh sling seat is giving me some reservations also. I rode a TerrraTrike Cruiser and am now leaning towards it or a TerraTrike Path 8.
Thanks for your help!
On a recumbent trike, what is the difference between direct steering and indirect steering?
Howdy Rock,
The folks over at Hostel Shoppe Recumbents in Stevens Point, Wisconsin provide some well worded definitions in their catalog and on the website. What you call indirect steering is commonly called linkage steering. Here is what they have to say:
“Direct Steering: Two handlebars are used. They are directly connected to each front wheel by attaching to the hub mount. The wheel movement equals the rider input. The result is quicker steering that is ideal for sport racing and taking sharp fast turns.”
“Linkage Steering: A single handlebar is connected to a pivot point and then connected to the wheels by tie rods. The wheel movement is less than the input from the rider. Linkage steering results in slow, smooth, comfortable handling that is ideal for touring and going fast in a straight line.”
I have ridden both types, and enjoy each. My ICE Qnt has linkage, and if I want to turn left, I pull my left hand back and push my right hand forward. On the Catrike I’ve ridden, with direct, if I want to turn left, I push my left hand towards my body’s centerline, while pushing my right hand away. It doesn’t take long to get used to either type.
Hopefully someone out there will find some unbiased assessment of the Sun trike you’re interested in and leave it as a comment here. If I come across anything this next week, I’ll let you know. Take care.
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